Sunny Days Bonnet

The Sunny Days Bonnet was born out of necessity. Necessity breeds invention, right?? We had a winter that would not end – and then suddenly, summer was upon us. We completely skipped over spring! And guess what? Miss. E had grown out of all her summer hats from last year. Not being able to shop due to stay home order and with the shipping delay nightmares we are experiencing… Mama needed to get creative.

Fold the wide brim back or have it out to shade their eyes from the sun.

This cute summer bonnet is a timeless, heirloom quality design that features gorgeous texture. It’s sure to be a staple in your little ones outdoor wardrobe. Miss. E uses hers every time we go out lately! It works up fairly quickly, making it the perfect last minute baby gift or fast project for your little one. I was able to whip up the 12-24 month size in under 1 1/2 hours!

Cotton is a perfect yarn for spring/summer garments. It’s lightweight yet sturdy, and holds up well to washing. I used on Caron Cotton Cakes but you can use any worsted weight cotton that you have available. Whatever yarn you choose, make sure that it’s soft for baby’s delicate skin!

This bonnet has 5 great features:

It’s made from cotton, so it’s lightweight for spring and summer.
A wide fold-out brim to shade the sun from little eyes.
Bonnet style hat blocks wind from little ears.
Tie straps keep it on.
It’s washable. Very important. Kids are real messy.

Lets begin!

Pattern Difficulty: Beginner +

Finished Sizes: 0-6 Months / 6-12 Months / 12-24 Months

Yarn: Caron Cotton Cakes or any worsted weight cotton yarn (4)

You will also need: Stich markers (2) , scissors, and a tapestry needle.

Hook Size: 4.5mm (G+)

Gauge:

16.5 stitches x 12 rows = 4″ square
Pattern used for gauge:
Alternate rows HDC & HDCBLO

Stitch Abbreviations (US Standard):

CH: chain
ST: stitch
SLST: slip stitch
SC: single crochet
SCBLO: single crochet back loop only
HDC: half double crochet
HDCBLO: half double crochet back loop only
DC: double crochet
DEC: decrease

Notes:

When working in the round: SLST to 1st ST of round to join.
Beginning chains are NOT counted as ST
If you are a beginner crocheter – I recommend putting a ST marker in the 1st ST of each Round/Row. This will help you keep your stitch count even.

Special Stitch Instructions – Less bulky HDC/HDCBLO Decrease

Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch and pull up a loop.
**without yarning over** Insert hook into next stitch and pull up and loop.
Yarn over, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Special Stitch Instructions – Loosely SLST

Insert hook into stitch, yarn over.
Pull up loop to match the height of loop on hook, then slip through.

Sunny Days Bonnet Pattern

We will begin with the back of the bonnet – each size is separated for this part of the pattern. Scroll until you find the size you’re looking for. When you have completed, then continue on to the bonnet & brim section.

0-6 Months

Rnd 1: Magic ring/circle. CH2, 12DC into ring. (12)

Rnd 2: CH2, 2DC in each DC . (24)

Rnd 3: CH2, *1DC in 1st ST, 2DC in next ST*. Repeat from *. (36)

Rnd 4: CH2, *1DC in next 2 ST, 2DC in next ST*. Repeat. (48)

Rnd 5: CH2, *1DC in next 7 ST, 2DC in next ST*. Repeat.(54)

Rnd 6: CH2, 1DC in each ST. Tie off.

6-12 Months

Rnd 1: Magic ring/circle. CH2, 12DC into ring. (12)

Rnd 2: CH2, 2DC in each DC . (24)

Rnd 3: CH2, *1DC in 1st ST, 2DC in next ST*. Repeat from *. (36)

Rnd 4: CH2, *1DC in next 2 ST, 2DC in next ST*. Repeat. (48)

Rnd 5: CH2, *1DC in next 3ST, 2DC in next ST*. Repeat.(60) Tie off.

12-24 Months

Rnd 1: Magic ring/circle. CH2, 12DC into ring. (12)

Rnd 2: CH2, 2DC in each DC . (24)

Rnd 3: CH2, *1DC in 1st ST, 2DC in next ST*. Repeat from * (36)

Rnd 4: CH2, *1DC in next 2 ST, 2DC in next ST*. Repeat. (48)

Rnd 5: CH2, *1DC in next 3 ST, 2DC in next ST*. Repeat. (60)

Rnd 6: CH2, 1DC in each ST. Tie off.

Bonnet – all sizes

Row 1: SK 2 STS, join yarn in next ST with SLST to BLO. CH1, HDCBLO in same ST, HDCBLO in next 49, (55), (55) STS. Turn. (50HDC),(56HDC), (56HDC). *4 unworked STS.*

Row 2: CH1, HDC in 1st ST, HDC in each ST. Turn. (50),(56), (56)

Row 3: CH1, HDCBLO in 1st ST, HDCBLO in each ST. Turn. (50), (56), (56)

Row 4: CH1, HDC 1st ST, HDC in each ST. Turn. (50), (56), (56)

Repeat rows 3 & 4 until you have 10 rows (12rows), (14 rows). Tie off. **Place ST marker in first and last ST. This will mark the tie strap position.**

Brim – all sizes

Row 1: SK 5 STS, join yarn in next ST with SLST to BLO. CH1, HDCBLO

in same ST, HDCBLO in next 38, (45), (45) STS. Turn.

(40HDC),(46HDC), (46HDC). *5 unworked STS on each end.*

Row 2: CH1, HDC decrease in 1st 2STS, HDC in each ST until you

have 2STS remaining, HDC decrease in last 2STS. Turn. (38), (44), (44)

**see stitch tutorial for less bulky decrease.**

Row 3: CH1, HDCBLO decrease in 1st 2STS, HDCBLO in each ST until you

have 2STS remaining, HDCBLO decrease in last 2STS. Turn. (36), (42), (42)

Row 4: CH1, HDC decrease in 1st 2STS, HDC in each ST until you

have 2STS remaining, HDC decrease in last 2STS. Turn. (34), (40), (40)

Row 5: **(0-6 only)** CH1, SCBLO in 1st ST, SCBLO in each ST. (34)

Do not tie off. Continue on to edge and tie straps.

Row 5: CH1, HDCBLO decrease in 1st 2STS, HDCBLO in each ST until you

have 2STS remaining, HDCBLO decrease in last 2STS. (38), (38)

Do not tie off. Continue on to edge and tie straps.

Edge & Tie Straps

CH1, 1/4 turn your work so you are working down side of brim.

SC evenly down to last row before brim.

SCBLO in next 5 ST – your last ST will be in marked ST.

Tie Strap #1: CH45,(55),(55), loosely SLST in 2nd CH from hook, loosely SLST

in each CH, SC in same ST as 1st(marked).

SC evenly along HDC edge.

SCBLO in 4 unworked DC STS along bonnet bottom.

SC evenly along next HDC edge to marked ST.

SCBLO next 4 ST to brim.

SC along brim edge, SLST to CH1 from beginning of row.

Loosley SLST in each ST across brim of hat.

* This will help make the brim a little more sturdy**

SLST to CH1 made at beginning.

Tie off. Weave ends.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern! Please tag me on social media so I can see all your adorable bonnets. It makes my designer heart happy!

Instagram: @jaded.craafts.creations

Facebook: @jaded.crafts.creations

TikTok: @jadedcraftscreations

Happy stitching,

xoxo Jade

Tulip Stitch Wash Cloth – Free Crochet Pattern

It’s been a long winter. According to the calendar it’s spring, but spring is nowhere in site around here. And with the whole world either in self isolation, quarantine lock down, or practicing social distancing, I thought we could all use a colorful pick-me-up!

As an aspiring gardener, it brings me great joy to see the first signs of spring… Tulips! Such a wonderful burst of color after the drab, dead winter. I love making wash cloths/dishcloths because they are a quick and easy project. They also make great anytime gifts…Mothers Day is coming up! This project is a great stash buster too! Use up those scraps! And really, can you ever have too many handmade dishcloths?

Lets begin!

Pattern Difficulty: Beginner

Finished Size: approx. 7 inches x 7 inches

Yarn: Bernat Handicrafter Cotton or any worsted weight cotton yarn (4)

You can use any colors you would like! Each row of tulips doesn’t take much yarn, use up those scraps! Below are some suggested colors.

1 skein of Color A (White)
1 skein of Color B (Green)
1 skein of Color C (Yellow)
1 skein of Color D (Pink)

You will also need: Scissors and tapestry needle.

Hook Size: 4.5mm (7)

Gauge: Not important for this project.

Stitch Abbreviations (US Standard):

CH: chain
ST: stitch
SLST: slip stitch
SC: single crochet
DC: double crochet
BOB: bobble stitch

Special Stitch Instructions – Bobble Stitch

1. Yarn over, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through two loops.

2. Repeat this in the same stitch/space until you have a total of 6 loops on your hook.

3. Yarn over, pull through all 6 loops at once. Bobble complete.

Notes:

CH1 for SC rows is not counted as a stitch.

CH2 or 3 is counted as a stitch.

Tulip Wash Cloth Pattern

Row 1: Color A. CH 27, SC in 2nd CH from hook, SC in each CH. (26 SC)

Row 2 – 3: CH1, 1 SC in each ST (26 SC)

Row 4: Color B. CH3 (counts as DC + CH1), SK1, (DC, CH1, DC) into next ST, *SK2, (DC, CH1, DC) into next ST* Repeat 6 more times. SK1, DC into last ST. (8 DC,CH1, DC)

Row 5: Color C. CH3(counts as DC + CH1), make BOB into CH1 space, *CH2, BOB into CH1 space*. Repeat 6 more times. CH1, DC in last ST. (8 bobbles)

Row 6-8: CH1, SC in each ST. *For row 6 – DC into CH1 spaces* (26 SC)

Row 9: Repeat row 4.

Row 10: Color D. Repeat row 5.

Row 11-13: Repeat rows 6-8

Row 14: Repeat row 4

Row 15: Color C. Repeat row 5

Row 16-18: Repeat row 6-8. Do not cut yarn.

Edge

CH1, turn your work 1/4 turn. SC in same ST as last ST, SC evenly around the edge of you wash cloth adding (SC, CH1, SC) into each corner. SLST to CH1. Finish off. Weave your ends.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this free crochet pattern. If you make one, I would love to see it! Tag me on social media or use #jadedcraftscreations

Instagram: @jaded.crafts.creations

Facebook: @jaded.crafts.creations

TikTok: @jadedcraftscreations

Happy Crocheting,

xoxo Jade

Eh? Wall Hanging – Free Crochet Pattern

Just a quick definition for my non-Canadian friends…

Eh? (ay). Canadian term for right, okay, please, maybe, thank you, how about it? Used after a statement or question. We Canadian’s often say it without even noticing. It’s just a part of our language. Like Timmy’s, Toque, and Toboggan.

With Canada day just around the corner, I was inspired to design this wall hanging. Before I learned to knit or crochet, I cross stitched. A lot. So much so, that I started designing my own patterns. After learning to crochet, it was a natural transition for me into tapestry crochet. All cross stitch patterns are pixel pictures on a graph, with each square equalling a stitch of the same colour. Then you make a few hundred (or thousand) little ‘x”s and you’ve got a stitched picture! Tapestry crochet is similar, except we will make one single crochet for each square. If you’ve never attempted tapestry crochet before, its actually quite easy! This wall hanging is made with bulky yarn, so it works up quickly.

Just a few quick notes about the pattern. 1. Normally, we dont want to see the contrast colour along the edge but for this project, it gives it a nice border without having to add one. 2. Most often, when working two strand tapestry crochet, colour B will hide behind colour A. This is not the case when using white as colour A and red as colour B. The red always peeks through, no matter how hard you try. For this pattern, we start carrying Colour B from the second row until the last row, this will help showcase the red peeking through. I find it gives it a neat tweed look.

Pattern Difficulty: Advanced Beginner

Finished Size: 14 inches x 15.5 inches

Yarn: Loops and Threads Charisma or any bulky weight yarn (5)

1 skein of Colour A (White), 1 skein Colour B (Red)

You will also need: Stick or wooden dowel

Hook Size: 6.0mm (10/J)

Gauge: Not important for this project.

Stitch Abbreviations (US Standard):

CH: chain
ST: stitch
SLST: slip stitch
SC: single crochet

Notes:

CH1 and turn at the end of each row.
Chain 1 is not counted as a stitch.
When working right side (odd numbers) – bring contrast colour up front of work to crochet over
When working wrong side (even numbers) – bring contrast colour around to back to crochet over

Right side
Wrong side

When reading from the chart:
1 square = 1 SC. Right side is read from right to left. Wrong side is read from left to right. Use a second piece of paper to cover the rows that you’ve already worked on so that you can easily see which row you should be working on next .

Pattern

Row 1: Right Side (White) CH 43, SC in 2nd CH from hook, 1 SC in each CH. (42 SC)

Row 2 – 3: (Start working over red yarn.) 1 SC in each ST (42 SC)

Add in the red yarn to crochet over
Hold it on top of your stitches
Continue to SC as normal
End of row 2
CH1, turn. Bring red yarn to front of work
Begin row 3 (right side)
End of row 3
CH1, Turn. Bring red yarn to back of work
Begin row 4 (wrong side)

Row 4-12: 20 White SC , 2 Red SC, 20 White SC

Changing colours: When switching to a new colour, insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour A and pull up a loop, then, with Colour B, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through both loops with Colour B.

Continue this method of changing colours through the rest of the project.

*For the sake of simplifying, I will not add SC to each number from now on.

All stitches are single crochet. W = White Stitch, R = Red Stitch

Row 13-16: 11W, 20R, 11W

Row 17: 10W, 22R, 11W

Row 18: 8W, 4R, 4W, 2R, 2W, 2R, 3W, 2R, 2W 5R, 8W

Row 19: 7W, 5R, 3W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 2R, 3W, 4R, 7W

Row 20: 6W, 5R, 2W, 3R, 1W,1R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 8R, 6W

Row 21: 5W, 12R, 2W, 3R, 2W, 4R, 3W, 6R, 5W

Row 22: 4 W, 7R, 2W, 1R, 2W, 2R, 3W, 2R, 2W, 4R, 1W, 8R, 4W

Row 23: 3W, 8R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 1R, 4W, 2R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 9R, 3W

Row 24: 2W, 11R, 3W, 3R, 6W, 5R, 2W, 8R, 2W

Row 25: 4W, 5R, 2W, 1R, 2W, 5R, 1W, 1R, 2W, 15R, 4W

Row 26: 4W, 16R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 5R, 1W, 3R, 2B, 4R, 4W

Row 27: 4W, 4R, 2W, 3R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 1R, 2W, 16R, 4W

Row 28: 3W, 18R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 5R, 1W, 2R, 2W, 5R, 3W

Row 29: 3W, 6R, 3W, 6R, 2W, 19R, 3W

Row 30: 3W, 11R, 1W, 12R, 1W, 11R, 3W

Row 31: 3W, 4R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 12R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 4R, 3W

Row 32: 3W, 2R, 4W, 3R, 3W, 12R, 3W, 3R, 4W, 2R, 3W

Row 33: 9W, 2R, 3W, 14R, 3W, 2R, 9W

Row 34-36: 14W, 14R, 14W

Row 37-38: 13W, 16R, 13W

Row 39: 13W, 3R, 1W, 8R, 1W, 3R, 13W

Row 40: 13W, 1R, 4W, 6R, 4W, 1R, 13W

Row 41: 18W, 6R, 18W

Row 42-43: 19W, 4R, 19W

Row 44-45: 20W, 2R, 20W

*Continue carrying red yarn through work*

Row 46-48: 42W Do not tie off.

Making the hanger

CH1, turn. Using both strands of yarn, make alternating colour chains until it’s long enough to fit around your stick or wooden dowel. I used 9 chains. SLST into 4th SC. Using the same alternating color chain technique, CH60. SLST in 4th from last SC, CH9, SLST in last SC. Tie off.